Is this Autumn taster menu one of Manchester’s best kept foodie secrets?

Stepping into James Martin’s restaurant, hidden above the glitzy hum of Manchester 235 casino, feels like discovering a secret lair of foodie decadence.

Tucked away in the Great Northern Warehouse, this cosy sanctuary offers an escape from the city’s clamour below. 

They have just launched their autumn taster menu, trying to capture the cosy feel of Autumn, as the cold closes in and the leaves turn to orange

This tasting menu, which includes four exquisite courses at £59 and wine pairings too, is an unpretentious yet indulgent feast curated by head chef Craig Sherrington. 

Autumn flavour at James Martin

Craig is no stranger to the nuances of haute cuisine.

He’s a chef with a CV that spans Michelin-starred kitchens and his own culinary ventures. 

Yet here, in the inviting realm of James Martin Manchester, he has perfected a balance between casual comfort and fine dining.

I asked him about the menu, and his face lit up.

“It’s James Martin on a plate,” he said with a grin.

“The dishes are rooted in tradition, but trust me, there are plenty of surprises. We like to put our own spin on things,” he added, with maybe just a dash of mischief.

“We like to have a bit of fun with the food.”

And honestly, who wouldn’t love that?

The menu is the perfect cosy comfort for the season ahead.

What’s on the James Martin Autumn taster menu?

The journey begins with a warm loaf of homemade sourdough accompanied by whipped butter which is reason enough to visit. 

The bread is a crusty wonder, and the butter is impossibly light and airy, whipped to a cloud-like perfection that almost disappears on the tongue.

But the real seduction starts with the Steamed Hoisin Duck Bun. 

A cloud-soft bao, delicately steamed, cradling succulent shreds of duck, rich with the deep, sticky sweetness of hoisin. 

It’s got crunch from crispy garlic and a hint of chilli heat that sneaks up on you. 

The Vaporetto Prosecco from Veneto, Italy, with its zesty lime notes, is a clever companion here, slicing through the richness with a sharp acidity.  

The Thai Crab Risotto is one of Martin’s signature dishes, and it’s obvious why. 

Creamy and comforting, it’s a wonderful melange of flavours, woven together with lime leaf and lemongrass, like a Thai curry masquerading as a risotto. 

Shellfish oil pools around the edge, giving the rice a glossy sheen, while the crab meat adds delicate sweetness. 

A sip of LaFage Chardonnay from Languedoc-Roussillon cuts through the richness with its hints of stone fruit and a subtle minerality, offering a perfect counterpoint to the dish’s dense, buttery base. 

“We try to stay seasonal,” Craig tells me, “but this risotto is a staple – it’s James’s baby.” 

And what a delectable baby it is, lulling us into a seafood-induced stupor that’s almost too good to leave behind.

Main course – Yorkshire lamb

The main course consists of Yorkshire Lamb. 

Craig explains that the lamb is sourced from Yorkshire, where the rugged landscape imbues the meat with an earthy robustness. 

Here, he offers a duo of roast rump and croquette confit shoulder, a contrast of textures that feels like a loving tribute to British meat. 

The rump is seared to pink perfection, its juices mingling with the spices, while the confit shoulder croquette is tender enough to practically melt on contact.

It’s an Instagrammers ‘pull-apart’ succulent dream. 

But it’s the supporting cast that truly steals the show: a fried aubergine tempura that crackles with every bite, and a preserved lemon that cuts through the richness with just the right amount of zing. 

“We’re playing with textures, flavours, everything,” Craig added.

“It’s lamb, but not as you’d expect.” 

And he’s right – it’s far better.

Paired with a Nespoli Prugneto Sangiovese from Romagna, the wine’s dark cherry notes marry beautifully with the meat’s savoury depth.

Dessert

As we move to dessert, I ask Craig about his inspirations in the kitchen. 

“We like to surprise people,” he said. 

“James loves to keep things familiar, but with a twist.” 

Case in point: Apple & Brambles, a dessert that’s as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. 

The spiced apple parfait is luxuriously smooth, each spoonful a cosy mouthful of autumn warmth, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg.

It’s paired with a blackberry sorbet that snaps you back to attention with its tangy sharpness. 

Add compressed hedgerow fruits, and you’ve got a vibrant, colourful tribute to the season’s bounty. 

The Statua Pinot Grigio Rosato from Veneto, Italy, with its floral undertones and light acidity, is a subtle but clever accompaniment that brightens each bite.

It’s a dessert that feels both familiar and new, like finding an old friend in an unexpected place.

Behind the scenes with Craig Sherrington

The brilliance behind these dishes isn’t just luck. 

Craig Sherrington has crafted this menu with an almost obsessive attention to detail, honed over years of experience. 

“We plan everything two or three months in advance, “making sure each dish is exactly right,” he added. 

The menu reflects not only the seasons but also the relationships Sherrington and Martin have cultivated with local suppliers. 

“Our lamb is from Yorkshire, and our vegetables often come from Evesham. 

“We’re using produce that reflects where we are and who we are,” he tells me.  

And it’s this sense of place, of seasonality, that gives the menu its power. 

His journey to James Martin Manchester has been marked by stints in Michelin-starred kitchens, a turn on the Great British Menu, and years running his own restaurants. 

“I was almost at the banquet,” he said, referencing his near-win on the Great British Menu in 2018. 

“Tom Brown pipped me to the post, but that experience shaped me.”

Now, he’s bringing that experience to bear at James Martin’s, where his playful yet refined style is the perfect fit.

I ask him about the man behind the restaurant’s name. 

“James is fantastic,” he said. 

“He’s very hands-on and approachable. 

“We talk often, and he’s always up for bouncing ideas around. We share a lot of the same influences, so it just works.

“We are very similar, he’s a no-nonsense Yorkshireman, and I respect that.”

It’s clear that the partnership isn’t just a professional one; it’s built on mutual respect and shared passions.

Hidden foodie gems in Manchester

As I finish the last sip of rosé and nibble on the final bite of cheese – a medley of British classics that rounds off the meal – I can’t help but be thrilled, and hugely surprised at the price vs quality of the dinner. 

This menu is a fine exploration of flavours, textures, and traditions. 

The restaurant’s secluded location, up a discreet staircase above the casino, feels almost illicit like you’ve stumbled upon a secret club where the only membership requirement is a love for good food.

And what a bargain it is. At £59 for four courses with wine pairings, this tasting menu feels like an absolute steal. 

Each dish is thoughtfully paired with wines that elevate and enhance the flavours, transforming the meal into a wonderful cacophony of tastes that linger long after you’ve left the table.

As I head back out into the ‘Thursday night is the new Friday night’ Manchester bustle, I feel a little like I’ve been let in on a wonderful secret.

James Martin Manchester might be hidden away, but it’s a gem worth seeking out. 

If you’re after a dining experience that’s as comforting as it is exciting, as unpretentious as it is luxurious, look no further. 

Craig Sherrington and his team have crafted something truly special here. And for the price, you’d be foolish to miss it.

Book a table at James Martin Manchester

James Martin Manchester is situated inside Manchester 235 and is an over 18s venue.

You can book a table at James Martin by clicking here