Mr Thomas's Chop House

Mr Thomas's Chop House has served the heart of Manchester with the very best of British food and drink for over 150 years. Though the owners are no longer the Studds, they are still an independent family business.

This Manchester institution, founded in 1867 by Thomas Studd, announces itself on Cross Street with an exuberantly decorated façade in buff-coloured terracotta and red brick. It is so narrow that it looks as though it has been squashed in between its more sober neighbours. The building dates from 1901: the front part, now the bar, was originally a shop, but beyond it is the original chop house dining room, a long and narrow space lined with green and cream tiles.

It has an authentic turn-of-the-century atmosphere - fortunately it hasn't been poshed up with white tablecloths or fancy props and the service is friendly and informal.

Mr Thomas's specialises in traditional hearty fare - steaks, chops, burgers and pies - but this is no ordinary pub grub. The Chop House is a first-class restaurant with cooking by top chefs who care about taste, quality ingredients and careful preparation; the menus vary with the season and include imaginative modern touches. Their famous corned beef hash - definitely not out of a tin - is a proper winter warmer with a secret recipe that takes 10 days to prepare. It's made with chives and comes with crispy bacon and an oozy soft-boiled egg on top.

If you think steamed suet pudding might weigh on the stomach try the steak and kidney pie - it is positively luscious, with tender slow-cooked meats inside a soft and delicious suet casing, accompanied by lashings of gravy and mushy peas. Other choices might include cod wrapped in smoked bacon, or ox cheek braised in Manchester Pale Ale or, for vegetarians, mushroom hash or speltotto, risotto made with spelt. Sunday lunch with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding is a speciality.

There is an excellent wine list - the award-winning Sommelier George Bergier learned his trade at Manchester's legendary Midland French. Finish off with sticky toffee pudding, treacle tart or the Great Lancastrian cheeseboard and loosen your belt.