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Full Flavour Behaviour from Bryn Evans

What dish has ‘done’ it for you...?

I’m sure that all of you can remember a dish that stands out in your mind from when you were a child, teenager or as an adult. Whether its spaghetti bolognese cooked by your mum or a particular dish that was served on a tasting menu at the two Michelin starred Gidleigh Park by Michael Caines. The memory of some dishes always remain with us – the flavour, textures, colours, presentation and the feeling of excitement and enjoyment whilst eating it. It’s something many of us come access very few times. As the big man (MC) says – “after love there is only cuisine”. So true! That feeling of being in love and that memorable dish are very very similar!

“What dish has ‘done’ it for you?”

For me? Lemon tart. Arguably the lemon tart king was Marco Pierre White and trying his recipe cooked by a former sous chef of his, I was blown away. It’s my favourite dessert by miles. Getting the sugar content right and getting the right amount of zing in a tart is the key. Marco’s recipe is very classical, (baking the eggs mixture in a pre baked tart case) but… When I use Michael’s recipe, it’s more adaptable to presentation, it’s easier to make and dare I say it, it’s better than Marco’s! It’s the same recipe MC uses at his two Michelin star Gidleigh Park and now, it’s on our a la carte menu in the Grill at ABode Manchester.

So, for this lemony, zingy, yellow master piece you shall require –

For the pastry…

  • 125g butter
  • 90g icing sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • Half a pinch of salt
  • Zest of half an orange
  • 250g of sieved flour
  • Grease proof paper

For the lemon cream…

  • 190g lemon juice
  • 6 egg yolks
  • 3 eggs
  • 150g sugar
  • 125g butter

First, make the sweet pastry. Place the butter and the icing sugar in a bowl and cream together with a hand blender or whisk until white. Add the sieved flour, orange, salt and mix until it resembles a sandy crumble. Then little-by-little add the eggs and mix together on a low speed if using a mixer. When the mix is firm remove from the machine, wrap in cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hours before using.

Roll the pastry and blind bake the oven at 160 degrees for around 20 minutes depending on the size of your case.

For the lemon cream, place the lemon juice in a saucepan and bring to the boil. In a bowl cream together the egg yolks, eggs and sugar, then add a small amount of the hot lemon juice. Whisk together until smooth and add the remaining lemon juice. Bring the mix back to the boil, whisking all the time until smooth. Remove from the heat and place into a blender, add the butter progressively and blend until smooth. Pour into the pre-baked tart and leave to set in the fridge.

Have a go at this, it’s really quite easy to do and your mates will love you forever!

Send me your questions and I’ll try to answer them best I can… #iloveFFB on twitter.

Next week I’m going to tell you all about veal. Some love it, some think its cruel, either way it’s controversial but its got full flavour behaviour!

Get in touch either on the comments boxes or via twitter @bryntevans01 or @mcatmanchester


Bryn x

All views expressed are those of the author.

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