Full Flavour Behaviour from Bryn Evans

I want to touch on the subject of veal...

I hope you all enjoyed Michael Caines’ lemon tart from last week’s recipe and as promised, I want to touch on the subject of veal, but particularly British rose veal which we have just introduced on our new spring menu at Michael Caines Café Bar & Grill.

“There is a lot of controversy regarding the wealth and health of veal…”

Now, cast aside your aspersions of small baby cows being raised in mud huts on a diet of semi skimmed milk and dodgy rotten veg offcuts, this is how a lot of people see that veal calves are raised on the continent. There is a lot of controversy regarding the wealth and health of veal on the continent but that can be said for the treatment of all meat, fish, vegetables and all things food for that matter (However, I must say that there are a lot of producers who diligently look after there lively hood produce on the continent in very excellent conditions!)

British Rose Veal is what I am talking about. Because we think in the way previously mentioned, over 250,000 veal calves are slaughtered each year for no other reason than they are just not needed. We buy very little veal as a nation and because of the stigma attached to it, we just don’t have the demand for it.

British veal calves are treated very well, yes, they are raised inside but in comfortable surroundings and fed a whole natural diet of full milk and fibre. So if you buy British Rose Veal you can be assured that that calf has had the best upbringing possible, and trust me the flavour is absurdly good!

It’s obviously tastes like beef! But it has certain vava voom with a silkyness to its’ texture and flavour. Why not go and buy some from your local butcher, you can have with chips in typical British style or like the Italians with some macaroni, either way I hope I have managed to try and convert you a little.

Now, to make your own chips to go with it, the secret is in the potatoes, but remember having soggy chips and blaming the season of the potato is B@&£);’s. I use a mix of 3 varieties through the year, either Maris Piper, Lover’s Choice or a rooster. At the moment the season is perfect for a Lover’s Choice potato.

“Don’t bother peeling them, you’ll lose flavour and the rustic appearance of them.”

Cut them into the chip size you want, run them under cold running water for 30 minutes, then, boil the chips for 6-8 minutes and drain them. Once the chips are cooled, cook them in the fryer with vegetable oil at home at 120 degrees until completely cooked through. Drain them again and wait until they’ve cooled. Now finish them in the oil at 175 degrees until beautifully crisp. I cool them 3 times, washing them and boiling them gets rid of all the starch which keeps them soggy. Frying at 120 cooks the potato nicely in the oil without colouring the chip.

Best of luck with the veal and chips.

I’m getting married next week so no column for me, but our restaurant Manager James will be talking all things booze – a subject close to his heart! But while I’m away sunning myself in Florence I’m going to pick some amazing pizza recipes. Thin or thick? Big or small? send me your best or weirdest pizza toppings and we’ll have a look at them.

Happy Scoffing peeps…

Get in touch either on the comments boxes or via twitter @bryntevans01 or @mcatmanchester


Bryn x

All views expressed are those of the author.


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