Why Topkapi has been Manchester’s go-to for Turkish food since 1979

In a city where restaurants come and go, often in the blink of an eye, there’s one spot on Deansgate that has stood the test of time.

For 46 years, Topkapi has been serving up soulful Turkish food with a side of warm hospitality.

What began as a modest takeaway has grown into a Manchester institution: a family-run labour of love that has fed generations, launched careers, and earned its place in the city’s culinary heart.

At the centre of this story is Seref Dursun, the man who founded Topkapi back in 1979, and his son Mete, who now helps run the show. Together, they reflect on nearly five decades of food, family, and the fiery passion that has kept their restaurant thriving.

46 years of Topkapi

Seref’s journey began in Istanbul, where he trained at the prestigious Hilton Hotel. “All my life I have worked in the kitchen, straight from leaving school” he said with a quiet pride.

But his path to Manchester wasn’t a straight one. “I left Turkey for Germany. I didn’t like it. Then Paris. Didn’t like it there either. Even when I came to England, I didn’t enjoy it at first – I wanted to go home. I think when you’re young you just like being home.”

That plan was foiled in the most unexpected way: “My brother took my passport so I couldn’t leave,” he laughed. “Turns out it was the best thing that happened to me.”

Settling in Manchester, Seref decided to open what would become the city’s very first Turkish restaurant, a bold move in a place where most locals didn’t even know what a döner kebab was. “People used to ask what it was – they’d never seen anything like it. I’d be carving the lamb döner, and they’d say, ‘Where’s the leg?” he chuckled.

But the gamble paid off. Topkapi quickly became a go-to for adventurous Mancunians and homesick Turks alike. The secret? “Our sauce,” Seref said.

“It’s never changed in 46 years. People try to change it – and the menu – but I say no. That’s why they come back.”

A family affair

For Mete, Seref’s son – Topkapi was a huge part of his childhood.  “We originally started in Peter Street – a takeaway café. I grew up in there with my younger brother and older sister. We were all practically born and raised in it!” he said.

“Even my mum and dad met in the kitchen. It was always a family place.”

After school, Mete and his siblings would head straight to the restaurant to help out with their parents, whether it was washing the dishes or mopping the floor.

“It was very family-oriented – Dad in the kitchen, Mum helping out, us running around everywhere. That’s how we grew up and everybody knew us.”

This family spirit is what’s helped Topkapi build such a loyal following.

“Some of our customers go way back. We’ve seen kids grow into adults, then bring their own kids. We’ve even had grandkids coming in now. Sadly, we’ve lost some customers over the years, but their families still come – it’s like passing on a tradition.”

In nearly half a century of service, a few menu items have become legends in their own right. “The döner and hummus – name a more iconic duo,” laughed Mete.

“And the Turkish meatballs are another original. They’ve been on the menu since day one.”

Topkapi’s commitment to authenticity has kept them consistent, even when trends came knocking. “People used to tell us to serve steaks,” said Seref. “But I said no – that’s not Turkish. People don’t come here for steak – they go to a steakhouse.”

It’s that refusal to dilute their identity that has won Topkapi so much love, not only from locals but also from celebrities. “Peter Kay’s been in. Ricky Hatton comes now and then – a brilliant man. Even Beckham showed up once for a quick takeaway! Loads of Turkish footballers too – Ilkay Gündoğan, Tuncay, Altay Bayındır.”

Mete, who also happens to be an actor (you may have seen him as Gorkem Tekeli in Happy Valley, Corination Street and Cold Feet), says the restaurant industry is even more demanding than the screen and stage most times. “Acting is my therapy – a way to escape the stress of the restaurant,” he said, “It always has been.”

“This industry teaches you everything – long hours, managing staff, dealing with customers… and the occasional drunk person!”

The personal touch at Topkapi

For him, the greatest lesson has been simple: “You get out what you put in. It’s humbling and exciting to have regulars who know you. I think people really enjoy that personal touch. You’ve got to be dedicated, and you’ve got to love food – if you’re not passionate, the customers will feel it.”

He added: “And don’t chase the money. If you put your heart and soul into it, you’ll get your reward in the end.”

Topkapi moved to its current Deansgate location in 1999, and it’s become a perfect fit. “It’s the best of both worlds,” Mete explains. “You can come in for a sit-down meal, or you can swing by at 3am for a takeaway after a night out. We’re open until four in the morning – it covers all bases.”

Through the years, they’ve watched Manchester’s food scene explode – and implode. “We’ve seen a lot of commercial and corporate chains come and go,” says Mete. “But Mancunians love a local, especially one with heart. We’ve kept that personal touch and I think that’s what’s kept us going for nearly 50 years.”

Seref Dursun

For Seref, Topkapi represents a life’s work not only in cooking, but inspiring others to get involved in the kitchen. He’s trained countless chefs over the years, many of whom have gone on to open their own successful spots. “It’s nice to see them go from pot-washers to owners,” he said. “I’ve never kept secrets – if someone wants to learn, I’ll show them.”

But while he’s opened many takeaways and restaurants across Manchester and beyond, there’s only one Topkapi. “This one is my baby. I always come back here at the end of the night. It’s where my family grew up – it’s everything to me.”

He gets emotional when asked about his proudest moments. “Beautiful kids and their families – that’s what I’m most proud of. I’m a family man. Maybe I shout too much in the kitchen,” he grinned, “but only when people don’t do it right. If I don’t like something, I won’t serve it. That’s the rule. If it’s not good enough for me, it’s not good enough for our customers.”

The oldest Turkish restaurant in Manchester

It’s easy to see why Topkapi has endured – through economic downturns, changing food fashions, and even a pandemic. There’s no gimmick here. Just good, honest food made with love, tradition, and a whole lot of graft.

Mete sums it up perfectly: “There’s a bit of soul in every dish. It’s personal. This place – it’s not just where we work. It’s where we grew up. It’s a legacy.”

And as Seref, now in his seventies, walks through the restaurant he built from scratch nearly 50 years ago, you get the sense that legacy is very much alive – in the food, the family, and the community they’ve fed for generations.

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