Mamucium has developed a reputation for modern British food with a Mancunian twist.
Andrew Green, executive head chef at the restaurant inside Hotel Indigo next to Victoria Station, has put together a menu full of regional influences from smoked Cheshire beef hash to Manchester Smoke House salmon – and local ingredients and suppliers feature heavily.
All the beef on the menu is reared and sourced locally by award-winning Manchester butcher, Lee Horsley Frost (Frosty to his Twitter followers). Before it arrives at Mamucium, the fully traceable beef is aged on the bone for 28 days for superior depth of flavour.
And what better way to celebrate the best of British beef than with a new weekly steak night? Mouths watering, we went along to see what you can expect.
“It’s all about showcasing all the great produce that we’re really proud of,” says chef Andrew. “There are some classic cuts of steak, and some that people might not have tried before.”
And they’re good value, too, from a 5oz beef rump for £8.95 to an 8oz hanger steak for £12.95 – a more unusual cut best cooked rare, and sometimes known as the ‘butcher’s steak’ because butchers would keep it for themselves rather than offer it for sale.
More traditional cuts, all cooked to order and to your liking, include an 8oz sirloin (£18.95) and a flavourful, well-marbled 10oz rib eye (£20.95). They’re all served with peppery baby watercress, wild mushrooms and charred plum vine tomatoes.
If you’re looking to share, you can indulge in an 800g tomahawk steak for £49.50 or a signature Mamucium 10oz Beef Wellington made with tender fillet wrapped in buttery puff pastry for £59.95.
First, though, there’s a range of starters, including Andrew’s signature Lancashire onion soup which consists of onion cooked in hearty lamb broth, topped off with a Lancashire cheese croute. It’s rich and shimmering and full of robust meaty flavours, and we would happily eat it daily given the chance.
Other options include pressed Goosnargh chicken terrine, soft Italian burrata cheese, charred asparagus and artichoke salad with sun blushed tomatoes, or an indulgent lobster macaroni cheese with a zingy lemon and parsley crumb.
Then it’s time for that steak. We just can’t resist a Flintstone-esque tomahawk, the usually massive bone sensibly trimmed down so it’s all about the meat and you’re not paying for the weight of the bone.
“I’ve hand cut all the steaks this morning,” says butcher Lee, who is rightly proud of the meat’s traceability – that is, its journey from farm to fork.
Cut from the fore-rib, the tomahawk is cut into thick juicy pink slices, charred outside and packed with intense beefy flavour.
And don’t even think about leaving the fat – it’s unbelievably, sigh-inducingly tasty with a sprinkling of salt. “It’s my favourite bit,” admits Lee. We can see why.
A jug of red wine gravy makes an elegant accompaniment, with proper hand-cut triple-cooked chips soaking up the juices nicely.
The pastry chefs take their job very seriously at Mamucium and it shows. Skipping pudding is definitely not an option here.
Mamucium Manchester tart (£6) is everything you want from the nostalgic dish, but it’s an elevated, skilful version. The wedge of fresh custard tart is filled with sweet homemade raspberry jam and topped with banana crisps and shaved coconut.
It’s about as far removed from school dinners as you can get.
Other options include milk chocolate torte, salted caramel custard tart, and peach parfait with Amaretti crumb. If you’re looking for something more savoury, you can choose from a selection of regional cheeses.
“It’s a real midweek treat,” says chef Andrew about the new steak night.
We couldn’t agree more.
Steaks at Mamucium will take place every Tuesday.
Hotel Indigo, 6 Todd St, Manchester M3 1WU (next to Victoria Station).